Can a booster pump run continuously?

November 11, 2025

Is your booster pump running all the time, making you worry about damage and high energy bills?

You feel the constant noise and vibration, wondering if it's about to fail.

The solution depends entirely on your pump's design and technology.

The ability of a booster pump to run continuously depends on its type.

Standard pumps often require rest periods to prevent overheating.

However, modern pumps with advanced cooling and variable speed drives are specifically designed for continuous, 24/7 operation, offering both reliability and efficiency.

Understanding your pump's capabilities is the first step.

A pump that runs when it shouldn't often signals an underlying problem in your water system.

However, the question of whether a pump can run for long periods by design is different.

It relates to its construction, motor technology, and cooling systems.

Let's explore why your pump might be running nonstop and what features allow certain pumps to operate continuously without issue.

This knowledge is crucial for selecting the right equipment and ensuring a long, efficient service life.

My booster pump does not switch off or continues pulsating

Your booster pump won't stop running, or it's constantly cycling on and off.

This annoying problem causes noise and wastes electricity.

You need to identify the root cause to restore normal, automatic operation and peace of mind.

A pump that fails to switch off is not receiving the signal that pressure has been met.

This is almost always caused by a loss of pressure somewhere in the system, such as a leak, a faulty valve, or an internal pump issue, preventing it from reaching its deactivation pressure setting.

A booster pump is designed to be an intelligent part of your water system.

It should only work when you need it to.

The pump's control system, often a pressure switch or an electronic controller, acts as its brain.

It constantly measures the pressure within your pipes.

When you open a tap, the pressure drops.

Once it hits a preset low level (the activation pressure), the controller tells the pump to start.

The pump then works to increase the pressure.

When you close all taps, the pump continues to run for a moment, building pressure to its maximum preset level (the deactivation pressure).

Once this pressure is reached and stable, the controller tells the pump to switch off.

If the pump keeps running, it means this deactivation pressure is never being reached.

The pump is trying to fill a "leak" that it can't overcome.

This creates a cycle of endless operation or rapid on-off pulsing.

Finding the source of this pressure loss is key to solving the problem.

Let's break down the most common culprits one by one.

1. Air leaks into the system

Your pump runs endlessly but fails to build full pressure.

This frustrating situation suggests the pump is working against an invisible problem.

You need to find and seal the source of the air leak to restore proper function.

If air is being sucked into the suction side of your system, the pump can never achieve a solid column of water.

This prevents it from building enough pressure to reach its shut-off point, causing it to run continuously without ever satisfying the pressure switch.

An air leak is one of the most common reasons a booster pump fails to switch off.

The pump is designed to move water, not air.

When air mixes with water on the suction side, the pump's efficiency drops dramatically.

It cannot create the stable, high pressure needed to signal the controller to shut down.

Locating the Leak

Finding an air leak can be tricky because air is being sucked in, not pushed out.

You won't see a water drip.

The leak is almost always located on the suction side of the pump.

This includes the suction hose, pipes, and all connected fittings between the water source and the pump inlet.

Check the Hose/Pipes: Carefully inspect the entire length of the suction line for any cracks, holes, or damage.
Check the Couplings: Every connection point is a potential leak. Check where the hose connects to the pump and where it connects to the source (e.g., a foot valve in a tank).
Check Gaskets and Seals: Ensure all O-rings and gaskets inside the fittings are in good condition and seated correctly.

Solving the Air Leak Problem

Once you have identified potential weak points, you need to ensure they are completely airtight.

The most reliable method is to reseal all threaded connections.

Disconnect the fittings on the suction line.
Clean the old sealant or tape from the threads.
Wrap Teflon tape (PTFE tape) around the male threads 3-5 times in the direction of tightening.
Reconnect the fittings, ensuring a snug and secure connection.
If a hose has a crack, it must be replaced.

How Modern Pumps Offer Protection

While sealing leaks is essential, advanced pumps have features to protect themselves during such events.

Protection Feature	How It Helps
Dry Run Protection	Senses the pump is not moving water correctly (due to air). It then shuts the pump off to prevent overheating and damage.
Intelligent Restart	After a dry run shutdown, the system will wait and then attempt to self-prime again. It may try several times with increasing wait periods.
Stall Protection	If the motor is running but the impeller is blocked or not pumping effectively, the system will shut down to prevent motor burnout.

These smart protections turn a potentially catastrophic failure into a managed fault.

The pump protects itself from damage, giving you time to find and fix the root cause—the air leak—without needing to replace a burned-out motor.

2. No non-return valve or foot valve attached

Your pump switches on briefly, then off, then on again, even when no taps are open.

This behavior suggests water is leaving the system when it shouldn't be.

You need to ensure water can only flow in one direction.

Without a non-return valve, water in the pipes can flow backward, out of the pump and back to the source.

The pump's controller sees this as a drop in pressure—the same as opening a tap—and switches the pump on to repressurize the system, creating a constant on-off cycle.

A non-return valve, also known as a check valve, is a critical component for any booster pump system.

Its job is simple but vital.

It allows water to be pulled from the source towards the pump.

But it completely blocks water from flowing in the opposite direction.

A foot valve is a type of non-return valve that also includes a strainer to block debris.

It is typically installed at the very end of the suction hose, submerged in the water source.

The Importance of One-Way Flow

When your pump switches off, it has successfully pressurized the pipes between the pump and your taps.

The non-return valve acts like a gate, trapping this pressurized water in the system.

If this valve is missing or has failed, that gate is left open.

The column of water in the suction pipe will fall back down into the tank or well due to gravity.

The pressure sensor on the pump immediately detects this pressure loss and thinks a tap has been opened.

It activates the pump again.

The pump runs for a few seconds, rebuilds the pressure, and shuts off.

Then the cycle repeats, sometimes every few minutes.

This not only wastes energy but also causes significant wear on the pump's motor and electrical components.

How to Fix the Valve Issue

The solution is straightforward.

You must have a functional non-return valve or foot valve on the suction side of the pump.

Installation: If a valve is missing, you must install one. It should be placed on the suction hose or pipe. Most pre-packaged suction hose kits come with a foot valve already attached.
Inspection: If you have a valve, it may be faulty. Debris can get stuck in the valve, preventing it from closing completely. It might also be worn out or broken.
Replacement: Disassemble the valve to check for dirt or damage. If it's dirty, clean it and reassemble. If the spring or seal is broken, it's best to replace the entire valve.

System Design Considerations

Proper valve placement is key to a stable and efficient system.

Valve Type	Typical Location	Primary Function
Foot Valve	At the end of the suction hose, in the water source.	Prevents backflow and filters debris.
Non-Return Valve	On the suction line, often close to the pump inlet.	Prevents backflow.

By ensuring a quality non-return or foot valve is installed and functioning correctly, you trap pressure where it belongs.

This creates a stable system that remains primed and ready, allowing the pump to rest until water is truly needed.

3. Dirt between valves

Your pump cycles on and off for no apparent reason, just like with a missing check valve.

You've confirmed a valve is installed, but the problem persists.

The issue might be an invisible blockage inside the valve itself.

Even a small piece of debris like a grain of sand, a leaf, or scale can get lodged in a valve.

This prevents the valve from creating a perfect seal, allowing water to slowly leak back to the source. The pump detects this slow pressure drop and switches on to compensate.

The valves in your water system are precision devices.

They rely on clean surfaces to create a watertight seal.

When dirt gets into the system, it can easily compromise this seal.

This problem can affect multiple types of valves, not just the main non-return valve.

It can lead to the exact same symptoms as a missing or completely failed valve.

The pump will cycle on and off as it constantly works to replace the small amount of water that is leaking back.

Types of Valves to Inspect

Several points in the system can be affected by debris.

You need to know where to look.

Foot Valve: This is the first line of defense. Since it sits in the water source, it's the most likely place for sand, sludge, or leaves to get sucked in and jam the valve mechanism.
Non-Return Valve: If you have a separate non-return valve on the suction line, it can also get clogged with any debris that makes it past the foot valve's strainer.
Internal Pump Valves: Many modern electronic pump controllers (like a Presscontrol or BRIO) have their own internal valve systems. Dirt can get lodged in these as well, causing the controller to read pressure incorrectly or fail to hold pressure.

The Cleaning Process

Fixing this issue requires a hands-on inspection and cleaning.

Power Down: Always disconnect the power to the pump before starting any maintenance work.
Isolate and Remove: Close any isolation valves and carefully remove the suspect valve from the pipeline. Be prepared for some water to spill.
Inspect and Clean: Open the valve if possible. Use a small brush and clean water to remove any visible dirt, sand, or scale from the valve seat and the moving parts (the flap or ball).
Check for Damage: While it's open, inspect the valve's seal or gasket for any permanent damage or warping. If it's damaged, the valve needs to be replaced.
Reassemble: Carefully put the valve back together and reinstall it in the pipeline, ensuring all connections are tight.

Prevention is the Best Solution

Regularly cleaning valves is not an ideal long-term strategy.

Preventing dirt from entering the system in the first place is far more effective.

Prevention Method	How It Works
Effective Foot Valve Strainer	A good quality foot valve has a fine mesh screen that stops debris from ever entering the suction hose.
Elevate the Suction Inlet	Position the suction hose inlet several inches above the bottom of your water tank to avoid sucking up any settled sludge.
Clean Your Water Source	If possible, periodically clean your water tank to remove accumulated sediment.

By keeping your water source clean and using proper filtration, you protect all the sensitive components in your pumping system.

This simple step ensures your valves can do their job properly, giving you a reliable and efficient water supply.

4. Drip leakage

Your pump switches on for a few seconds, then shuts off.

But this happens very infrequently, maybe once every 10 minutes, or even once an hour.

You've checked for leaks but can't find anything.

A very small, "invisible" leak on the delivery side of the pump is letting water out of the system, bit by bit.

The pump's sensitive controller detects this tiny pressure drop over time and activates the pump just long enough to restore the pressure, causing frustratingly intermittent cycling.

This is one of the most maddening problems because the leak is often hidden from view.

The most common culprit is a dripping toilet cistern.

The fill valve inside the toilet tank may not be closing 100%.

It allows a tiny, silent stream of water to seep into the cistern.

To you, this is unnoticeable.

But to the pump, it's a constant demand for water.

Over several minutes, enough water seeps out to cause the system pressure to fall below the pump's activation point.

The pump kicks on, refills the pipe system (and the tiny bit lost to the toilet) in a few seconds, and shuts off.

Then the slow, silent leak starts the process all over again.

Finding the Invisible Leak

You need to become a detective to find these small leaks.

The toilet is the first place you should always check.

The Toilet Test: Put a few drops of food coloring into the toilet cistern (the tank). Do not flush it. Wait for 15-30 minutes. If any of that color appears in the toilet bowl, you have a leaking fill valve or flapper.
Check Other Appliances: Inspect every connection to appliances fed by the pump. Look for tiny drips under sinks, behind washing machines, or at outdoor tap connections.
Isolate Sections: If you have isolation valves, you can close off different parts of your plumbing system. If the pump stops cycling when you isolate a certain section, you know the leak is in that part of the house.

How to Fix Drip Leaks

The fix depends on the source of the leak.

For the common toilet leak, the solution is usually simple and inexpensive.

Adjust the Float: Sometimes, the float mechanism that closes the fill valve just needs a small adjustment to create more closing pressure.
Replace the Valve Seal: Most toilet fill valves have a small rubber seal that can wear out. These are often easy to replace.
Replace the Fill Valve: If the mechanism is old or damaged, the best solution is to replace the entire fill valve assembly. It's a standard plumbing part available at any hardware store.

The Role of a Pressure Tank

A pressure tank can help manage the symptoms of a tiny leak, though it doesn't fix the root cause.

A pressure tank is a small vessel containing a bladder and a cushion of compressed air.

It stores a small amount of pressurized water.

How a Pressure Tank Helps
Reduces Cycling: With a tiny leak, the tank will supply the lost water first. This means the pressure in the pipes drops much more slowly.
Longer Off-Time: Instead of the pump cycling every 5 minutes, a pressure tank might allow it to stay off for an hour or more, even with the leak.
Better for the Pump: This drastic reduction in starts and stops significantly extends the life of the pump's motor and electronics.